Flying High With Electric Power!

The Ampeer ON-LINE!
March 1998
The Club Newsletter of the Electric Flyers Only, Inc
AMA Charter 2354
Walled Lake, MI, USA

Editor: Ken Myers

Fly the Future - Fly Electric!

President:Vice-President:Secretary/Treasurer:Board of Directors:Board of Directors:
Ken MyersRichard UtkanDebbie McNeelyJim McNeelyJeff Hauser
1911 Bradshaw Ct.240 Cabinet4733 Crows Nest Ct.4733 Crows Nest Ct.18200 Rosetta
Walled Lake, MI 48390Milford, MI 48381Brighton, MI 48116Brighton, MI 48116Eastpointe, MI 48021
(248) 669-8124(248) 685-1705(810) 220-2297(810) 220-2297(810) 772-2499
Mailed Ampeer subscriptions are $10 a year U.S. & Canada and $17 a year world wide. FREE on-line!The Next Meeting: Date: Thursday, March 5 Time: 7:30 at the Dublin Community Center, Union Lake, Mi, just north of the village of Union Lake, on Union Lake Rd.
What's In This Issue?
Full Scale Electric More on Using 10 Cells Midwest Essence Rating Electra Twin Plans
News from NEAC A Few Hints for the New Year Thanks for '98 Mid-Am More on Don Skiff's Yellow Scratch-built
E-planes at the Scale Nats More on the PuddleMaster Twin Sloping on Lake Michigan Cap It!
Glockner F86F Sabre Birth of the EFO & Ampeer Upcoming Contests FOR SALE

Full Scale Electric


(I recently ran into the following while surfing the web. For more information on full scale electric flight visit the DG FLUGZEUGBAU GMBH website at: http://www.dg-flugzeugbau.de/Elektroflieger-e.html km)
An Ultra-Light: Sailplane

The "Electro-Silent", an ultra-light sailplane equipped with a 13 kw electric motor. It has a large two-blade prop, which folds to retract and has fairly good performance. Its first flight took place in Aachen last August. The performance was quite impressive for such a small airplane as reported in "Fliegermagazin Nov 1997" by Jochen Ewald. One did not expect to achieve a climb rate of 2.4 m/s, and in comparison an accompanying "normal" motorglider (Samburo) did not climb any faster. The battery lasted for a climb to about 500 m, but after that any "assistance to get home" was no longer possible.
The plane could start by winch, and gain another 500 m with the help of the motor to get home. This would allow a radius of about 20 km.
The construction is simple and robust. One can exclude starting problems with this motor. (Duh! km) There is almost no maintenance. A specially developed charger gets optimum performance from the battery. A load cycle off a normal plug is about two hours.
Flying the "Silent" is quite a compromise. The gross weight of 300 kg including pilot allows only the most sparing construction. (Sound familiar? km) The cockpit is only an "aerodynamic pilot dress". No trace of a safety cockpit. Performance at the 12 m span is as expected, best L/d 31. Price of DM 85,000.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

ON USING 10 CELLS (cont. from the Dec. Ampeer)
From: (Steven Horney) sfhorney@fortwayne.infi.net

Ken,
Just to update you on my EZ 25L ARF conversion (from the letter you posted in the December Ampeer):
I finally achieved the level of performance I wanted by using 10 cells, a geared Astro 05, and an APC 11-8 prop. Static draw is around 32 amps. With this setup it will takeoff in 30 - 40 ft, climb well, and perform most conventional aerobatics. It won't perform extended verticals, but is otherwise a very nice flyer.
I was also able to achieve fairly good performance by using 10 cells, a direct Astro 15, and an APC 9-5 prop. With the geared 05 and the plane in full dress (cowl, spinner, etc.) the weight came out to 68 oz (wing area is 400 sq. in.). I hope to save another 3.5 oz by changing the full-size servos to micro-servos in the near future. I am using a New Creations 60 amp BEC ESC, Airtronics micro-receiver, and a Sonic-Tronics motor mount. If I can afford it I would also like to eventually replace the geared 05 with a geared FAI 15, or at least put the lighter components on my 05. That should save another 2 oz (taking the weight off the nose would be particularly desirable, since the CG is a little forward right now). The full-fuel glow weight with the .20 was 63 oz, so I'll be right at that weight with no structural modifications if I employ the micro-servos and FAI lightening mods.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Midwest Essence Rating
Ricardo R N Jorge - Campinas SP BRAZIL - email: http://www.mpc.com.br/users/r/ricardo.jorge/

Plane: Midwest Essence
Rating: **** (could be five, as it is my first electric glider, but I think I'll save that extra * for the future)
Comments: Although not advertised as an electric glider, even the F1 has the holes cut off for motor cooling. I used the Graupner Speed 500 with 2.8:1 gearbox and the matching Graupner 12x10 folding prop. A Jeti 35 ESC and normally 6 Sanyo 2000SR packs.
It is a very solid plane with good looks. I didn't build mine with spoilers, but it would help to hand catch it every time. Final weight was about (I normally use grams) 42 oz. This setup is inexpensive (except for the batteries, but it goes fairly well with 1400mAh packs) and very easy to install with minor surgery being performed in the front section.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Electra Twin Plans


While tracking down some information on this plane for a gentleman, I received some information from Bob Boucher, Mr. Astro Flight, regarding the availability of plans for this plane.
Subj: Re: Electra twin plans
Date: 97-11-28 14:12:35 EST
From: (Bob Boucher)
We found a bunch of plans. After 25 years they are a bit yellow but readable. We are including the plans with the fiberglass fuselage of this plane, whose photo is on our web site. It is a 72 inch span twin pusher for a twin 25 or twin 40 aerobatic model.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

News from the NEAC...
from Doug Ward, president (NEAC)
What follows is an unashamed advertisement for the National Electric Aircraft Council (NEAC):


As many of you know, I am the president of the NEAC and I have been working feverishly to meet with as many e-modelers as possible throughout the past year-and-a-half. During that time I have had the extreme pleasure of running the electric Nationals with the AMA in Muncie, N. It is my job not only to act as the representative of a special interest group (SIG) to the AMA, but also to bring e-modelers together under one roof to work for their best interests both in and out of competition.
Additional activities include: the encouragement of manufacturers and resellers to address our diverse needs; the sponsorship of contest activities through awards to modelers of high achievement; activity as a forum/clearinghouse to encourage writing and the general exchange of ideas; the publication of a quarterly newsletter, The NEAC News, for the dissemination of information relating to our branch of the hobby; and the offering of a plea to modelers everywhere to join us in what promises to be the most exciting branch of the model aircraft hobby to emerge in a long time.
Now, how do we get things done? We have been managing in various ways, but it has now become necessary to formalize our procedures a bit. Starting immediately we are soliciting the payment of dues, $15.00 per year, in order to continue working along the lines as outlined above as well as to expand the newsletter, sponsor flying events and encourage the formation of e-modeling clubs. Appropriate input to the editor of the NEAC News will also stand a good chance of being published. Please remember that this is a national newsletter with a tight focus on things that interest you, the e-modeler!
During this year alone I have paid official visits to contests and fly-ins in Pennsylvania, Michigan, Texas, Louisiana, Georgia and Florida. At many of these, the NEAC has officially recognized such high-profilers as Tom Hunt, Keith Shaw, Kirk Massey, and Ken Cashion, leader of the League for Electric Soaring. We will continue to urge the emergence of innovators whose talents only need a nudge to achieve national importance. There are many of you whose voices need to be heard.
And we keep fast company. My fellow officers are Vice President Bob Aberle, Technical Editor for Flying Models, Secretary Tom Hunt, owner of ModelairTech and producer of many types of belt drives, model plans, kits and goodies of all kinds, Treasurer Ken Myers, president of the EFO club in Michigan and editor of The Ampeer, one of the most renowned newsletters in the land. So, you see, we are a viable group gathering and storing electrons as we go.
Please consider a membership in this organization as a present to yourself. We have many good plans to realize, but nothing will happen without your help. If you should decide to join, please make your check out to NEAC and mail it to me (Doug Ward, President, NEAC, R D 1 Box 189, Irwin PA 15642). Please put your AMA number on your check for my records. You must be a member of the AMA to join the NEAC.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

A Few Hints for the New Year!
The following come from the June 1997 AMA National Newsletter

Fiberglass Application Made Easier


When applying fiberglass reinforcing to the center of your wing, try this trick to keep the fiberglass smooth. First spray the area around the center of the wing joiners (top and bottom) with 3M #77 Spray Adhesive. Now you can position and press down the fiberglass taking time to get all of the wrinkles out. The spray adhesive holds it in place until the final gluing, preventing buckling and fraying.
from Plane Talk, Troy Smith, Editor - PO Box 112, Three Rivers, MI 49093

Nail File Supreme

I went with my wife a few weeks ago to a beauty supply shop that sells to beauty shops and cosmetologists, but will also sell to the general public. While I was there I saw some fingernail file boards. Now we all use these, generally getting them at the discount store, and they are made of hard paper with grit on both sides. They have two characteristics: 1) they are handy as the dickens and 2) they only last a few minutes and the grit is gone. Well the one I bought for 49 cents was for professionals, a lot bigger and on a resilient foam base with that nice gray grit that lasts so long. The thing is marvelous! Get a few and make the manufacturer wonder why so many people in Peoria have started to file their nails!
from the Summit Valley R/C Flyer's Newsletter - Tomy Meisel, Editor, 3211 W. Wiltshire, Peoria, IL 61614

Epoxy

Did you ever have your six-minute epoxy start setting up on you after one or two minutes? Epoxy manufacturers suggest that you mix your epoxy on a flat, wide open surface as opposed to a deep container It seems that mixing epoxy in a deep container speeds up its chemical reaction time. If you still want to use a deep container, add a little alcohol (don't exceed 50%) to the epoxy to slow down setting time.
from Valley City R/C Club Newsletter, Carl Koehn, Editor - 5833 Doxmere Drive Parma Heights, OH 44130

Dull X-Acto Blades

Tired of dull X-Acto blades? The only time I replace blades is when I drop one and break off the point. I covered my last plane using only one blade!
Go to your local hardware store or knife emporium and purchase a Washita whet stone. Washita is an extremely fine grade of stone used for finish honing a knife blade to a razor edge. About ten strokes on each side should return your X-Acto blades to their original sharpness. Mine is about 1-1/2 x 4 inches, made by the Buck Knife people, and is the perfect size for sharpening #11 X-Acto blades. These stones cost about $10, but think how many blades you used covering your last plane with Monokote. It won't take many packs of blades to pay for your stone and it will last for many years. I've had mine for at least 15 years and it's still going strong. Be sure to apply plenty of oil to the stone before sharpening your blades. I use 3-in-1 oil. It will keep the metal particles that are removed from the blade in suspension so you can wipe them away instead of having them clog the pores of the stone and render it useless. Wipe the stone with a paper towel after each use. Repeat this oil-sharpen-wipe procedure each time you use the stone and it will last forever An instruction booklet is usually packed with each stone. Read it to find the best way to sharpen your blades.
from R/C Skyhawks Club Newsletter, Craig Miller, Editor - PO Box 196, Remsen, IA 31050-0196

Take that Scratch Out!

The following question was posed on rec.models.rc.air:
"Hello Everyone, does anyone know how to take the scratches out of a butyrate canopy? I was thinking there might be some kind of wax that would work. Any Ideas?"
The answer: Check marine/boating supply stores for "Aurora" plastic windshield cleaner/protector (two bottles). #1 is a polishing compound and #2 appears to be a silicone based wax/polish. Works well except on deep scratches, works wonders on old clouded canopies. .Let me know if you try this!
from Transmitter, John Clark, Editor, PO Box 141, San Marcus, CA 92079

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Thanks and Ideas for Next Year's Mid-Am
from Jim Jager - jimjager@juno.com

Ken,
I had a great time at the electric fly-in (Mid-Am '97 - km), I sure don't envy you and Keith as you sure had a lot of great aircraft to choose from and some tough decisions on which ones most deserved the awards.
I have a couple of suggestions concerning next years (this years - km) event and what type of categories could be added to compensate for the loss of the "Longest Timed Flight" event;

  1. Add "Best Seaplane", there appeared to be enough candidates this year and probably would be more if it was an official event. Possibly a small kids pool could be set up to prove them sea worthy, and bonus points if they are capable of taking off from grass. (or the pool? - km)
  2. Add "Best Ducted Fan", not so many entrants this year but making it a category would probably encourage more.
  3. In both of the above, scale is not necessary, aircraft could be judged on performance as well as looks and other factors.
  4. I also believe that ALL potential winners in ALL categories should be flown (weather permitting), for why should you present awards to aircraft which you don't know whether or not they fly, and if so, how well do they fly?

Well, that's my two cents worth, thanks for putting on such a great show,
Thank you Jim. See ya soon at the '98 Mid-America Electric Flies, July 11 & 12 at the Midwest R/C field in Northville Twp., MI.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

More on Don Skiff's Yellow Scratchbuilt
(see photo November '97 Ampeer - October Meeting)


I asked Don for more information on his scratchbuilt plane.
It's a quick and dirty original design making use of a Mirage 550 wing and tail (rudder slightly extended), salvaged from a pilot error. I was looking for something that would resemble 1930 transport, keeping major statistics (length, weight, etc.) same as Mirage. Motor is Leisure 05 geared 2.5:1, 10x8 MA Electric prop, 7 x 1000SCR pack, AF 211 ESC, standard servos, JR receiver. Weight approximately 48 oz.
Cheers, Don

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

E-planes at the Scale Nats
from: Rick Fischer - Charge Ahead editor - e-mail: Dcrcr@aol.com


Just a quick note on the scale results from the Nats.
Randy Smithisler entered the sport scale, after much coaxing from Bob Benjamin, and wouldn't you know, he won third place in his first major contest. Randy flew his PA-12 Supercruiser
Bob Benjamin entered in the FAI team scale and brought home a fourth place finish. This makes him a first alternate at the World contest (don't know what its called) in South Africa.
We here in the pacific NW are very proud of them both. Showing that electrics aren't just toys, but real competitive scale airplanes.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

More on the PuddleMaster Twin
From Ed Boehm email: eboehm1@ibm.net


To: Wade and Ken: Response re the request for Twin PuddleMaster plans in AMPEER. Attending a Float Fun Fly held at Clear Lake in Northern Iowa Sept 14, I saw a great flying Twin PuddleMaster flown by Walter (Kurt) Renner of Mason City, Iowa. Copied here is a ccmail in which he responded to my inquiry for tech. specs. While not plans, I hope that this info can help. I know that I was impressed enough that I plan on building a Twin PuddleMaster. I fly year-round and for years have been Winter/Summer-flying a Ken Willard wet power seaplane design, the .25 size "Drake", modified w/ flaps. Great flying off H20 or the white version!! I think the Twin PuddleMaster will do the same, but quietly w/zero cold weather starting problems. I'm fortunate in that I live on a large city park and can just walk out my back door and launch my electrics. Most residents don't even know that I'm flying there. Ah, the advantages of electric! Hope this helps.
Sincerely, Ed Boehm
And Now Kurt: email: WKURT@mcleodusa.net
Hi Ed,
My Puddle Master is presently is using 2 Speed 400 6 volt motors with a Mini Olympus 2.3:1 gear box. The prop is an APC 7x4 cut down to 6.5x4. The plane is built stock and covered with Ultracote film, no special effort to keep the weight down. I am using small servos Fut. Micro S3101, standard receiver, and 270mAh battery. The motor battery system is using New Creations R/C Speed control model #NCM20 with BEC. With 7 1700mAh cells the all up weight is 48 oz. The motors are wired in parallel with #14 good quality wire. The plane has been flown with a several 05 can motors, and a 035 Astro geared motor which was the most acrobatic combination, but I like the twin setup with its sound and looks which always generates comment. I have found New Creations R/C, and owner Kirk Massey a good source of much in electric R/C supplies. They handle everything in the Hobby Lobby catalog. They also sell Steve Neu's FAI motor controllers, and has Steve making controllers for New Creations that have the option of BEC.
Well that about covers the Puddle Master, if you have any other questions let me know.
KURT

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Sloping On Lake Michigan
from Louis Dionne email: Louis_Dionne@truevision.com


Hello Everyone,
The other day I was scanning a couple of 3-views for some other R/C projects and I took the time to scan this shot I took last August at Sleeping Bear Dune.
Everyone will recognize the "Great Bearded One", although you may wonder what is wrong with the beard...Well if you look closer, you will see that all of the beard is there, but actually the wind is blowing hard enough to give it a more streamlined profile.
Behind him, on the top right side, you will notice a green hill; this is actually the origin of the name for the region.
This place is very good for slope soaring and offers several orientations to match the wind conditions. It is also a very scenic area. This site is now in my hot list for best site visited so far for slope along with Davenport, Los Banos and the St-Lawrence river near Quebec city.
This last summer I had the chance to fly with Keith and Martin Irvine over there. I must say I am seriously thinking about going back next summer.
Enjoy the picture and hopefully I will see you there some time.
Louis Dionne - In flat Indiana, USA

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Cap It!


(I'm always forgetting what size capacitors to use on my motors. Stefan Vorkoetter at smvorkoetter@maplesoft.com (of MotoCalc) fame posted the following information. km)
33pF is the same as .000033uF (microfarad, mf is millifarad). 1mF (millifarad) = 1,000uF (microFarad) = 1,000,000nF (nanoFarad) = 1,000,000,000pF (picoFarad)
I always install a 0.1uF capacitor across the motor, and a pair of 0.047uF capacitors, one each between each motor terminal and the case.
For the 0.1uF, use Radio Shack part number 272-135 or 272-109. For the 0.047uF, use Radio Shack part number 272-134.
0.1uF capacitors are often labeled 104, meaning 10 x 10^4 pF. 0.047uF capacitors are often labeled 473, meaning 47 x 10^3 pF.
The voltage rating of a capacitor doesn't matter, AS LONG AS IT'S HIGH ENOUGH. Anything over 50V is fine for 6 to 10-cell R/C use.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Glockner F86F Sabre

Gordon with his F-86 at the '97 KRC
Reviewed by Gordon Tarling, editor: Electric Flight U.K. - 87 Cowley Mill Road, Uxbridge, Middx. UB8 2QD
Tel.: 01895 251551 - email: 100651.737@compuserve.com
http://www.ndirect.co.uk/~befa/


Having had my appetite whetted by the material which was gathered for the last issue of EFUK, I decided to place an order with Siegfried Glockner for one of his first F86 Sabre kits. The F86 has to be the most archetypal of all the older jets fighters and has always been on my list of 'nice' aeroplanes. That an electric jet-powered kit should now become available meant that I simply had to try one.
The kit was ordered in early April, but Siegfried told me he wanted to be sure the kit was "right" before releasing any. This meant that I had to wait until mid-July until the postman appeared on the doorstep bearing a rather large box.
The F86 is constructed mainly from cut white foam with balsa reinforcement where necessary - as this was a departure from 'conventional' kit construction for me, I took care to follow the instructions precisely. Although German in origin, the kit is provided with an excellent English translation of the instructions, so there really are no excuses for mistakes. In typical German thoroughness, a complete parts list is also supplied, which eases considerably the task of identifying some of the less obvious parts.
As far as the contents of the kit are concerned, I found very little to criticise. All the foam parts are cleanly cut and nested back into the blocks from which they were cut for protection. Wooden parts are all marked with their respective part numbers and are from good quality wood. Strip wood supplied is well chosen and straight. My only criticism of the quality of the parts supplied was that the pre-shaped section for the ailerons was rather harder and heavier than I would have chosen myself - however, I elected to use it in order to save a bit of building time. Snakes supplied are of the thin piano wire lightweight type and quite adequate for the job. Control horns are to be cut from a pre-printed plywood sheet, whilst devises and screws are supplied in a small bag.
The F86's distinctive nose cowl is provided in pre-trimmed vac-formed plastic and only needs to be glued in place. Also from vac-formed plastic are the tail platform and canopy. The later being one of the clearest examples I have ever seen.
I won't bore you with a blow by blow account of the construction as it would serve no real purpose, so I'll just confine myself to commenting about aspects of the construction where necessary.
No real problems were encountered with construction of the fuselage, it is mostly from three separate foam pieces which are glued together. I did wonder at one point where all the equipment was meant to fit, as positions are not shown on the supplied drawings for some items. Siegfried has promised to correct this on later issues of the drawing by showing recommended positions for all the equipment. As it was, I encountered no real problems once I realised that the main inlet duct is bifurcated for some of its length and that the central part comprises an equipment box where battery, receiver, speed control and elevator servo are housed. I'm not too sure just what effect this layout has on the efficiency of the ducting, but there is precious little space elsewhere on the model to hide the equipment.
I have to admit here to deviating slightly from the supplied drawing when it came to fitting the equipment. The elevator servo is shown protruding up out of the fuselage and into the canopy space. I simply mounted it slightly lower than shown, in order to leave a clear area for a false cockpit floor and pilot to be fitted at a later date. I'm sorry to say that nothing offends my eye more than an empty bubble canopy zooming around the sky!
Wing construction roughly followed that of the fuselage, each wing having leading and trailing edges of balsa added together with spruce top and bottom spars capped with balsa, the respective wing halves then being joined to the centre section, with the spars linked by balsa joiner pieces, making for a strong wing. Ailerons are simply of pre-shaped balsa section, cut to size and hinged with tape, whilst the aileron servo sits in a well in the centre section and is connected to the ailerons via the supplied thin piano wire 'snakes'.
Tail surfaces are nothing other than conventional balsa construction and are mounted to the fuselage via the vac-formed mounting platform.
My kit was supplied with the Schwertfeger fan unit as reviewed in the last issue of EFUK, my example being powered by a Graupner Race 480 motor. Early assembly of the fan unit showed a very disturbing wobble of the domed spinner nut, but this proved to be only a 'drunken' thread in the nut which disappeared when the nut was replaced. The rear lower half of the fuselage, behind the wing, is made detachable and this is where the fan unit sits, exhausting though a thin card tailpipe. No difficulty was encountered in mounting the fan, though threading the wiring through the pre-cut channel in the fuselage proved a little more taxing, though not impossible.
I was very keen to reproduce on my model the bare aluminium finish which most of these early jets wore. However, I have to admit to being a little unsure of the best way of finishing the model at first, so some experiments were carried out on scrap pieces of foam from the kit. The instructions recommend either covering directly with film, or with tissue and then spraying with paint. Hoping the film covering would prove practical, I first tried applying chrome finish Profilm, only to be rewarded with a surface which not only showed every lump and bump underneath, but also seemed to gather more and more dents as it was handled.
Next experiment was to apply lightweight tissue with thinned down white glue. This seemed to give a better finish but, after being sprayed silver also showed every irregularity underneath. Another failure! Brown paper has also been advocated as a suitable covering medium for foam in several circles, but I must have been using the wrong type when I tried as I couldn't even persuade it to adhere properly to the foam!
By now, I was now beginning to wonder if I would ever find an acceptable method of covering and finishing the model, so gave the subject some deep thought one evening. I decided to try using heavyweight modelspan tissue which would probably cover the surface irregularities better than either the lightweight tissue or the film which I had tried earlier. I firstly gave the foam a light sanding with fine new garnet paper to remove all surface irregularities. I then gave it a thinned down coat of aliphatic resin glue which I allowed to dry before giving it another light sanding. A suitably-sized piece of heavyweight tissue was then water soaked and laid on the foam and any creases smoothed out as far as possible. A 50/50 solution of water and aliphatic resin was then brushed on the tissue to adhere it firmly to the foam. After an overnight drying period, another coat of thinned aliphatic resin, followed by light sanding down when dry, gave a very smooth and non-porous surface which looked very good after being sprayed with 'aluminium' car paint.
Having now found an acceptable finishing method, I began to apply my new found knowledge to the model. I discovered that the foam had picked up many 'dings' during the construction and these took some time to fill with lightweight filler and sand down. One disadvantage of using almost any type of filler on foam is that the filler is harder than the foam, which inevitably always seems to lead to the filler standing slightly proud after sanding. This effect seems to be largely due to the fact that the foam onto which the layer of filler has been applied has a slight amount of give and tends to compress under the pressure from the sanding block, only to spring back later. I did find that I was able to largely overcome this problem by applying the first thinned-down coat of aliphatic resin before applying the filler. This technique seemed to give the surface of the foam just enough hardness to resist the pressure of the sanding block.
I also discovered that the glue lines were harder than the foam itself and this caused some difficulty when it came to obtaining a satisfactory finish. Perhaps there is a foam-compatible adhesive which is easy to sand, but I'm afraid that I don't know of one. Maybe some of our readers more experienced in this type of foam construction can advise on suitable adhesives?
After covering with the heavyweight tissue, the model was sanded all over and then given two light spray coats of 'aluminium' car paint. This gave a fairly convincingly realistic finish which tended to show handling marks rather too easily for my liking, so a thinned coat of water-based varnish was applied over the top. The kit is supplied with an excellent set of self-adhesive decals and some of these were used to apply the finishing touches. However, I wanted my model to depict a slightly different aircraft from that on the box and had to custom-make a few of the decals. My feelings are that the chosen colour scheme is slightly more appropriate for an electric-powered model, I hope you agree!
Final installation of all the equipment proved straightforward and it was now C.G. determining time! Due to the low wing, the model is balanced inverted and I found that the flight battery simply required moving forward by about 10mm in order to confirm a safe C.G. position for first flights. After this was done, some small foam blocks were made in order to retain the battery in its correct position.
In any electric, model, a full range check is essential before its first flight. However, it is even more essential in a model of this type due to the fact that all the equipment is in such close proximity. I did anticipate some interference problems with the motor running, but these were to prove unfounded due, mainly, to the excellent FMA Micro 2000 dual conversion miniature receiver which I was using. Range checks over, it was time for that now or never first flight!
This model poses at least two problems in the struggle to get it airborne. Firstly, being fan-powered, little thrust is developed at low speed and all such models need careful nursing before they 'get up on the step'. Secondly, being a lowwinger without undercarriage, there is nothing to get hold of to give the model a decent hand-launch. Of course, the model could always be launched inverted, but I'm afraid that this method is for those less faint-hearted than me! Siegfried does detail a simple bungee-launch method in the instructions whereby the model is released by a simple foot-pedal. This seemed to me to be all very well with a tried and trimmed model, but I felt it could lead to disaster should the model be badly out of trim. I therefore elected to fit an optional 'smoke fluid tank' to the underside of the wing centre section which provided sufficient grip for a decent first hand-launch over some long grass.
Being of faint heart (read coward) I elected Andy Turner as chief test pilot for the first flight. I have relatively little experience with low-wingers and felt that Andy would probably make less of a mess of things than me. I also had someone other than myself to blame should things go wrong!
Valium taken, knees knocking, it was time to se what this model could do! I launched the model straight into the breeze and it headed momentarily for terra firma until Andy managed to get some up elevator fed in and the model began a slow but steady climb-out. After one circuit, the model was quite high enough for Andy to be able to trim it out enough for him to be able to release the sticks, at least momentarily. A couple more circuits to get the feel of things and it was time to head for a landing, throttling back, Andy brought the model round and glided it in for a real greaser of a landing. Batteries were placed on charge whilst frayed nerves were allowed to calm slightly before another flight was attempted.
For the next launch, Andy elected to get the model away and planned to hand me the transmitter once he had got the model stable. However, the model pitched up slightly as it left my hand and headed rapidly for a stall. Andy managed to get some down elevator fed in very rapidly, but the model traveled a few yards and then pancaked into the ground with a resounding thud. Half expecting the model to disintegrate before my eyes, I was very surprised when it stayed in one piece. However, I was a little dismayed when I picked it up as I could smell that very pungent smell of electrical burning which very electric modeller fears. I rapidly unplugged the battery and took the model back to the pits.
As access to the fan unit is not easy, I decided to plug the battery back in briefly and try the motor again. However, it wouldn't run, so there was nothing left but to take the model home for a post mortem.
Back at home, the fan and exhaust duct were removed and it rapidly became clear what had happened as two blades were missing from the fan which was seized solid. The impact had obviously distorted the fan shroud, caused the blades to rub or seize and the cyano, with which the blades were' fixed, to part company. Although the fan unit is designed to have the blades glued in with cyano, I had always been uneasy with this method as this adhesive does not, in my experience, work tremendously well on plastics. Examination of the motor revealed where the burning smell had come from, as burnt windings could be seen through the cooling slots!
I was now in a bit of a panic as this had happened on the Sunday prior to me leaving for the American KRC meet and I had hoped to take the model with me. A quick call to John Swain of Fanfare found that he had a Wemotec 480 fan unit in stock and promised to post this to me first thing Monday morning, complete with new Race 480BB motor. The model had been designed to accept either Schwerdtfeger or Wemotec fan unit, so this would not pose too much of a problem (I hoped) and the Race 480BB motor promised a little more performance than the standard Race 480 version.
True to John's word, the postman arrived on my doorstep first thing Tuesday morning with the parcel and I rapidly headed for my workshop to expedite installation. Very little modification of the model was required and I soon had the new unit installed and ready to run. Whilst I had the model in pieces. I also substituted a 72mHz FMA receiver of the same type for use whilst in the USA. A brief bench test showed that all appeared well with the model, the fan unit giving the impression that even more thrust than before was now available.
I would have liked to have test flown the model again, but I had now run out of time and had to pack the model into its stout cardboard box and bubblewrap for its longest flight so far, all 3500 miles of it! The box and contents were then consigned to the mercy of British Airways.
When the large box appeared on the baggage conveyer at Philadelphia International airport, I was slightly concerned as the box appeared to have had one corner slightly crushed. However, I needn't have worried for the model appeared quite undamaged when I unpacked it in my hotel room a few hours later.
Friday afternoon, down at the field, I was rather dismayed to find that I only had about ten feet of good range with the transmitter aerial retracted and motor running. Either the 72mHz receiver was more susceptible to noise from the motor, or the motor itself was generating more than its allotted amount of RF noise! Opinions varied as to what the best course of action was going to be. However, I felt that no amount of extra suppression would cure the problem and that only a different motor would effect a complete cure.
My friend Ralph and I had been discussing the relative merits of brushless motors and fan units and he suggested that it may be a good idea to fit my fan unit with one of the Astro Brushless 020 motors which appeared so suitable. I decided that drastic action was definitely necessary if the F86 was ever going to fly successfully and elected to purchase one of these delightful little motors. My only problem was that of finding a trader who actually had one for sale!
Ralph had hinted that Bob Boucher of Astro Flight may be attending the event on Saturday and that he may actually be selling some motors, so I had little choice but to join my friends for another beer (hid) and await Saturday morning with keen anticipation.
Bob Boucher showed up at the field around 10 a.m. and I soon pinned him down for a discussion about the merits of fans and brushless motors. Bob agreed that the two were well matched and suggested I took a 7 turn 020 which had a 'pylon' controller attached. This meant that the controller had extra FET's fitted to allow safe operation up to 25 Amps maximum current. The standard controller is only good for up to 15 Amps and it was felt this was insufficient on the ten cells I was using. Folding green stuff was extracted from the wallet and I had to await that evening's hotel-room 'workshop' so that I could fit the motor to the model in an atmosphere of at least some peace and quiet.
I won't go into the whole story of fitting the motor as it would probably completely fill this magazine! Suffice to say that I had a lot of help from several people who I now count as good friends and finally completed 'engine runs' at an hour very close to midnight! Opinion was that static thrust had increased by a very substantial margin - the howl of the fan was quite something to behold and the model even got nicknamed 'Dustbuster'!
Down at the field on Sunday morning, the wind was quite gusty and my observations of other models led me to chicken out and see if the wind would abate at all, as it was forecast to do. By lunch time, I decided that it was flyable, a bit of breeze being a good thing with this model, in any case.
A good launch by friend, Ralph, and the model put its nose up and headed for an immediate stall. A wild rollercoaster ride followed for the next ten seconds or so before I was able to put the model down fairly gently, more by luck than judgement, on the grass straight ahead. Some headscratching lead to the conclusion that the C.G had been shifted far enough back by the removal of my own controller up front and the subsequent fitment of the Astro controller behind the motor, to make the model unstable. Although I didn't much like the idea, it seemed some lead was required!
A quick search of the traders present revealed a packet of self-adhesive weights which were rapidly purchased and around one ounce's worth applied to the nose of the model. Checking of the C.G. showed that it was now in a much safer position, so I elected to try for another flight. Battery was topped up and it was off to the flightline for another attempt.
Ralph again launched the model with a good heave and it was immediately apparent, to me at any rate, that the C.G. problem had been solved. I still had a bit of a battle on my hands, however, for it appeared that the controls were much too sensitive in all axes and that I rapidly needed to get the rate switches in. Now, those of you who've never experienced this situation may not understand how difficult it actually is to let go of the sticks sufficiently long enough to be able to hit those switches! I didn't really want to let go of the stick at all and was concentrating on keeping the model climbing straight ahead and getting some valuable height underneath it. I also had another problem in that there was a row of trees at one side of the flightline over which the model would have to pass on its first circuit.
I concentrated on gaining enough height to ensure that the model cleared the trees and hit the rate switches as soon as I was able. Once the rates were in, the model was much more controllable and I began to turn the model gently to the left as it gained height and accelerated. By now, the model was really beginning to move and its outline was rapidly becoming smaller, so a turn back to the field was becoming more urgent by the second. The gentle turn was completed, with the model just above the tree line and heading back toward me at around 45 degrees to the flightline.
What happened next, I'm still not sure about, but I think I felt the model was starting to turn away from me again, so I gave a bit of aileron to correct this tendency. However, I think that the old distance/orientation problem must have reared its ugly head again because the turn tightened rapidly until the model was in a steep spiral dive. By the time, I realised what was happening, the model was descending behind the trees and it was too late to do anything about it. With head in hands, myself and two or three others us headed toward where the model had gone down to start a search for it.
I won't go into the details of recovering the model as the story would probably fill the rest of this magazine, suffice to say that we discovered a 'hidden' secret testing track for Mack trucks behind those trees and that is where we eventually found the model. Sad to say, I considered the airframe beyond repair and removed all the equipment from it before returning home.
Would I build another? I most certainly would, given some improved piloting skills. The crash was down to pilot error, pure and simple, because I am short of experience on small, fast models. I think some practice with a small pylon racer would be in order before I attempt another model like this! The model was flying very well just before it crashed and I have no doubt that the performance would have been almost as good on the discarded 480BB motor. The model attracted admiring glances wherever it was seen and it can't really be called difficult to build!
If you want a small jet kit which is good value for money, attractive, easy to build and flies well, then there really is little other choice.
Postscript
Examination of the errant Race 480BB motor showed that the commutator segments were burning on their trailing edges, pointing to inaccurate timing. Back at home, the motor was re-timed correctly and it was found that it no longer interfered with the receiver. I suppose I should really have checked the timing before the motor was installed into the model, but I'm pleading lack of time!
Another Glockner kit has now been ordered for the winter building season and it isn't an F86 Sabre!

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

February 19, 1998

Dear Club Members, Ampeer Readers —- Dear FRIENDS,
As you can see, I've reproduced the first page of the first Ampeer. It was called the W.O.L.F.'s Call, as the proposed name of our club was the West Oakland 'lectric Flyers, but that was not to be. Actually the newsletter took on the name "Ampeer", for I am peering into electric flight, with issue 2, and the club became the EFO, Electric Flyers Only, Inc.
That means 120 Ampeers have been edited by me and published over the last 10 years! There were also several special issues over that DECADE, when there was "just too much stuff to share" to wait another month!
As you can see, the original master is a bit smudged, but still intact after all of these years. I am actually told that there are a few of the original issues still around! WOW!
It is hard to believe how the Ampeer and electric flight have grown over the last decade. The first issues were put together on an Apple IIe and we were flying 05/075 cans with 7-cell 1000mAh and 1200mAh systems and 10, 15, 25 and 40 ferrite systems. The Astro Flight cobalts were just becoming popular. Over the years the Ampeer has stayed exactly the same in content. If it interests me, you get to read about it. I guess many of you find it interesting as well, as you renew year-after-year.
One of the toughest jobs is physically putting this newsletter together. Folding, stapling, and stamping is a tiresome and never-ending job. The best part is when I put on the mailing labels. I see names that I've seen for the better part of a decade. I may never have met you, talked to you, or even heard from you, except at renewal time, but I consider you one of my best friends. I'll turn to my wife and say, "Oh yeah, Ron Watts, what else could he fly?" or "I told you about that guy in Alaska, remember?". One of the most heartbreaking times is when a loved one calls and says to stop sending the "Ampeer". I've actually cried, many times. But that is a part of life. Through all of you, I experience a richer and fuller life! Thank you so very much!
I really need to thank all of the newsletter editors, and their contributors, who so kindly share their information with all of us. Newsletters are an interesting breed. They are sort of like an "underground" information system. Our world has great, really great, modelling magazines, and a few clunkers (see: I can even put in an editorial comment if I feel like it!), but a newsletter can be both less formal and more informative.
Now, with the World Wide Web, little newsletters, like the "Ampeer" can reach out and touch folks all over the world, and it is doing just that. Who'd a thunk it?!?
I am delighted with the readership of the "Ampeer". You folks are the best. Hopefully, the "Ampeer" will continue to fill your needs over the next decade.
Very sincerely yours,
Ken Myers; editor: the Ampeer

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

Upcoming Events:

May 3, RAMS Club of Winston Salem, NC, Electric Fun Fly, Contact: Colin McKinley (336) 924-5890. The club field will be available for practice on May 2. AULD limited to seven cells. Folks are encouraged to bring S400 racers./a>.

May 23, Oakville Model Flying Club Electric Funfly, Contact: John McNicol (905) 821-9629; Drumquin Park, North Field, Milton, Ontario

June 6 & 7, EMFSO SOGGI Electric Funfly, Contact: Bud Wallace (905) 274-3177 or Stan Shaw (519) 766-9966 Ontario, Canada (I believe sw Ontario, I'll check for "town".)

June 13 & 14, Knights of the Air 1998 Land of Lincoln E-Fly in Springfield, Illinois. For more information, contact Tim McDonough

June 13 & 14, DEAF/Ezone Electric Expo (in the works)
What: Sport/Fun Fly with User Friendly Competion - Anything Electric Goes!
When: June 13 & 14 (Tentative)
Where: Either Irving RC or Grand Prairie RC Field (Stay Tuned)
Events:
Speed: Fastest time between two pylons. Dive down, etc. and make "level" timed flight.
Aerobatics: Will be a simple short routine. Scoring method to be determined
Most flight: 2 minute minimum each flight. Honor system log in of # of flights
Smallest Airplane to make a 2 minute flight: "Small" = length of wing + length of fuselage
Biggest Airplane to make 2 minute flight: "Big" = lenght of wing + length of fuselage.
Stand-Off Scale: Pilot vote on best stand-off scale plane.
Speed 400 Pylon: 300’ leg x 50’ base. Man-on-man. 10 laps. Duel elimination.
Weirdest/Most Unusual: Pilot vote on "oddest" aircraft
Fun Fly: Shortest time to take off, do 3 loops, 3 rolls, land intact.
Youngest Pilot: Certificate to youngest person to fly a plane.
Oldest Pilot: Certificate to oldest person to fly a plane.
Greatest Distance Traveled: Certificate for person traveling longest distance to attend meet.
Ugliest Plane: Certificate awarded to ugliest flying plane. CD picks ugliest
This will be a low cost ($10 or less) meet. We’ve you to decide on when the events will take place. Everyone is welcome to come out and just fly, gab, etc. More to come in next DEAF Notes (and Ampeer km). Please contact Frank Korman (214) 327-8411/email: FSKorman@aol.com or Jim Bourke (972) 680-1220/email: jbourke@ezone.com
Also visit the Ezone web site: http://www.ezonemag.com/ (info from DEAF Notes, Jan. ‘98)

June 13 & 14 the River Valley Flyers announce The River Valley Electric Only Fun Fly to be held in central Wisconsin (Wisconsin Rapids area). The CD is their club newsletter editor, Richard Ida. For more information, contact Richard Ida at Inspctr398@aol.com or phone: 715-421-5994

June 27 & 28, Kingston Radio Control Modellers Electric Funfly, Contact: Martin Irvine (613) 389-9457 or email, Kingston, Ontario.

June 26th, 27th & 28th MARCEE98 At the 3M R/C flying field. e-mail info at mlroerig@mmm.com, Phone: 612-426-5018 or for directions see http://www.isd.net/3mrcflyers/events.htm

July 11 & 12 Mid-America Electric Flies to be held at the Midwest R/C Society flying field on 5 Mile Rd. near Napier Rd. in Northville Twp., MI, which is near Plymouth, MI. Hosted by the Ann Arbor Falcons, CD Keith Shaw, & the Electric Flyers Only, Inc., CD Ken Myers. Contact Ken Myers for more details.

July 18 and 19 Voltaires of Central New York Tenth Annual All Electric Fun Fly --- Grenadiers Field, Caughdenoy, NY. This is a medium (25 - 35 pilots) size event with the emphasis on FUN. We run about 10 to 12 events each day and give prizes for the events, door prizes and a drawing for really nice grand prizes. The site has a paved runway, clubhouse with power and plenty of room for camping but no hookups. The quality of this event has produced a very loyal following, or maybe it's because we feed the pilots lunch both days. Contact Garret Wikoff 315-695-4271, wikoff@ibm.net or Gordon Wheler, 5 Old Farms Ln., Cazenovia, NY 13035.

August 2, 3, & 4 AMA/NEAC Electric Nationals, Muncie, IN at AMA Headquarters. Old-timer, glider and S400 competition. Contact Doug Ward, president of NEAC

August 8 & 9 Fort Wayne ElectriFly The club is situated at a park that also has camping sites just a stone's throw away. Saturday will be exclusively electric flying, as well as into the evening. Sunday will be "open" flying to all members of our club, but the field is usually vacant on Sunday mornings.
We're planning on having some night flying Saturday evening. There will be food available most of the day, we'll probably try to hold a dinner towards evening. More details will follow. For more information contact: Pat Mattes Yoder, IN

August 22 & 23 2nd Annual MARCEE/ST. PAUL R/C ELECTRIC FUN FLY St. Paul R/C Field contact Steve Pauley stevepauley@worldnet.att.net or phone 612-560-5529
To check out: !!

1) Updates to MARCEE98, "The Great Minnesota Area Electric Fly". More pictures of expectant participating aircraft have been added and updates about attending vendors etc.

August 22 & 23, Halton Hills - George Ball Electric Funfly Contact: Geoff Miller (905) 454-5198, Halton Hills Flying Field, east of Georgetown, Ontario

Sept 18, 19 & 20, KRC ‘98, Queen City Airport, (PA) Durell Leister Sr., (610) 825 7758 (home) and (610) 270 3563 (work). Please remember we are on Eastern Standard time! or email: Anthony Assetto Be sure to check out the Web Site for the latest details.

Return to "What's In This Issue?"

FOR SALE: Airtronics Infinity 660 - Brand-new - 6ch., 4 102 servos, 600mAh Rx battery, Channel 15 - $300
Contact:Doug Kursinsky, 37752 Jerome, Sterling Hts., MI 48312 --- (248)264-5014. Sorry, he doesn't have an email address.

*****

Sig Riser 100 converted to electric. Asroflight 05 Pullmaster truck motor (2 included). Seven cell 1700 battery pack. AI35 electronic speed controller. Hobbico 910 charger. Sonictronics 8x4 folding prop. Astroflight gear box included. email to truflite@mich.com or dave at (810) 977-7324 evenings

*****

For Sale: from Gordy Stahl - email: GordySoar@aol.com
I have that Pou Du Ceil tandem wing complete with servos battery pack, 15 gear FAI still in good shape and a few other goodies. This is the Orange French replica, and the ship the Lazy Bee was fashioned after. I'm looking for $150 plus shipping. Nice flier, I just am traveling too much and am focusing on TD contest flying.
Also:
I've got a bunch of 1700's, still $2 each plus shipping
Min. order 50 cells. Cash or check
Gordy Stahl, 9303 LeBeau Ct., Louisville,Ky 40299
Phone: 502 491 5001

To Reach Ken Myers, you can land mail to the address at the top of the page. My E-mail address is: KMyersEFO@aol.com EFO WEBsite: http://members.aol.com/KMyersEFO/

Return to "What's In This Issue?"