star flier.  The Extra that I scratched built from the GP kit plans weighed 8 oz less and it flew great (ask Keith).
The four star rated (second) GP Extra 300S also has a CF gear and a sheeted foam wing.
I just wanted to clarify why I rated both of these aircraft four stars.  Just because someone builds them from the kits doesn't mean the results will be the same.
Thanks again for a great time at the "Flies".
George

motor life.
I have tried the Kyosho "Magnetic Mayhem" reversed rotation motor (about $20 from Tower hobbies) with 3:1 gearbox and 11 x 7 APC on 10 cells. This goes well, but is under-geared (Ken Myers uses a 2.3:1 gearbox in his installation) I am going to experiment with 2.5:1 and 2:1 ratios to get it to draw more amps. The Kyosho has no problem with 10 cells.  I would love to try a brushless motor on 10 cells, but can't afford one...
<What size servos would you recommend?>
Use micro servos. Use a micro receiver if possible.
<Would you recommend your combination with ailerons?>
Mine is rudder / elevator. I would recommend ailerons, but don't expect too much in the way of snappy response; it is a very stable airplane.
<What type of flight duration's do you get?>
This depends on how you fly i.e. how much throttle you use. I normally achieve at least 10 minutes on 1700 cells. The plane is light enough to thermal, so I have occasionally had 20 minute flights.
<Preferences 40" or 48" wings?>
The 48" wing is probably better for electrics, as the model will be heavier than a glow-powered equivalent due to the battery weight.  However, if you are going to fly in windy conditions, the 40" wing may be best. Why not build both wings, do some back-to-back testing and publish the results in the Ampeer?
<Any suggests you would make?>
On Electric models, lightness is everything. The Bee should not weigh over 3 lbs. i.e. 48 ounces ready to fly. Use CA glue, cover with LiteSpan, cut lightening holes in the stabiliser.  Don't be tempted to reinforce anything; it won't crash any better and will probably fly worse. Actually, the Lazy Bee is really quite robust as it is.
Use a speed controller with BEC to save the weight of the receiver battery pack. An A1 Robotics FX35D is excellent, if expensive. You could use an Astro 217D minature controller (no BEC) which is really cheap from Tower.
If you are an experienced pilot, use the biggest control throws you can get for entertaining aerobatics.  I like the bolt-on wing setup as opposed to rubber bands.
Watch out when taking off on windy days, if the wind gets under the wing it cartwheels. A hand launch is safer in these conditions.

Let me know how you get on.
Regards,
Steve

cont. to page 4

Ten-cell Lazy Bee
From: Steve Minter
email: 76614.2471@compuserve.com


(A short while back I featured some pictures and info on Steve's 10-cell Lazy Bee.  A power system he added after seeing my 10-cell planes fly.  Here he shares some information with Dave Behner and the rest of us. Km)

Dave,
Here are some answers:
<How big was your 10 cell pack in milliamps?>
I use Sanyo 1700SCRCs, mainly because the 2000s are too expensive. I sometimes fly it with an 8-cell, 800 mAh pack, which gives good performance but short duration. With 7 x 1700 cells it is docile enough to be a good trainer. With 6 it is sluggish.
It handles windy days better with the 10 x 1700 cells; because of the increased power, and the higher wing loading also helps.
I suggest hump packs, with 6 cells underneath and 4 on top. This suits the Bee, as the fuselage is tall inside.
The battery pack sits on a false floor, and is held in by velcro. I put a battery door in the side of the fuselage, as suggested on the plan.  I suggest you consider putting a door in the curved  front of the fuselage instead, as this gives a better escape route for the battery in the event of a crash.  In my setup the battery would destroy the front of the model.
<What motor did you use?>
I originally flew it with an Astro 05 geared (about $130) (the standard Astro box is 2.38:1) With an 11 x 7 APC prop this  gives good results even on 7 cells. On 10 cells this really goes well - big loops etc. are possible. Astros are really nice motors. Bigger props hit the ground on takeoff and landing.
It flies OK using a Great Planes Goldfire can motor (about $15), 3:1 Master Airscrew gearbox and 11 x 7 APC prop on 7 cells. I haven't  tried the Goldfire on 10 cells, it might be a bit too much and result in a short